[Insert Fashion Here] | NYFW forecast + OMG THEBE WON | Vol. 1, Issue 4

LVMHPrize | Instagram

I was sitting in my car watching the LVMH Prize's live Instagram story when I heard myself scream. I wasn't entirely sure, but I thought I just heard Louis Vuitton brand ambassador Alicia Vikander casually announce that the Grand Prix was awarded to "Thebe Magugu."

When he walked onto the platform to receive it, confirming what I heard and that it wasn't the Jury/Karl Lagerfeld prize, it was THE prize, I screamed again. I took screenshots, leaving the car and heading inside my building, past a very confused security guard, fumbling with my keys while screaming at Danni Bowler on whatsapp. Then I screamed at Thebe, and when a call from my sister interrupted that voice note, I screamed at her too.

The screams I screamt.

I have so much to say about this, but I think it deserves more time and space to think deeply about the meaning of the moment, take a much better look at the collection (I have it on good authority that the lookbook is a stunner), and discuss wider trends in investment in African fashion's supply chain. I could stay right here all day praising Yeoville's finest, Kimberley's own, our beautiful boy, but for now, you can read this, a short news announcement I put together last night for Vogue Arabia! (Thanks Christine!)

We're so proud of you, Thebe. Your win has been a warming light in a very cold, dark week. On and up. ✨

Tom Ford taking a bow at his Spring/Summer 2019 show in New York | Vogue Business

It's here: S/S 2020, the highly anticipated arrival of Tom Ford's New York Fashion Week. It's shorter, because that's what the buyers and press needed, it's more experience focused, with collection presentations involving dinners and performances, and it's version #100-and-something of itself, with New York being the most reactive (or dynamic, if you will) of the big 4. On paper it starts tomorrow, but off-schedule, shows began yesterday.

Some of the changes we can expect from Ford's first season as CFDA chair:
- This year it caps out at 5.5 days, with a much tighter (and yet apparently more inclusive) edit of designers and a more efficient schedule. It's run up to 9 days(!!) before with gaps in between that wasted time, frustrating those who flew in to attend and would need to fly to London next.

- NYFW has had some high profile exits over the past few seasons, with some designers staging solo in New York and others choosing London or Paris' official schedule instead. Alexander Wang & Monse went solo, Joseph Altuzzara and Rodarte moved to Paris, Calvin Klein doesn't show anymore... It's opened up room for new designers and should make for a very fresh season along with all the other changes.

- Proenza Schouler is moving back to New York after a few seasons in Paris, not sure what that means yet or who else is making the move back with them, but I'm excited. VERY excited. You know how I feel about Proenza. [If not, we'll revisit it after their show.]

- Some established American favourites have hung on to their favourite show times in the new schedule, but some exciting newer names have scored prime time spots as well: The official schedule begins with Telfar SS20 at 6pm, billed on the calendar as a 'performance.' Ooh.

Read up: Vogue Business reports on the new direction and Vogue Runway looks at what to expect.

Eva Chen, Edward Enninful & Dimeji Alara | Instagram

Wondering who to follow for the shows? Eva Chen has some suggestions, and she gave them to @Curatedbyfb, an interesting showcase of what Instagram and Facebook teams are 'liking lately'. Her selections include @tylerjoe and @Edward_Enninful, who was recently immortalised as a Ken Doll thanks to a visit from Barbie! You should definitely follow Eva too.

My suggestions? Right now, there's just one: Follow @DimejiAlara. He's in New York for the shows and always comes back with great stories! I doubt we'll get another lightning in a bottle moment like that time Lady Gaga licked his face at an Alexander Wang afterparty in 2015, but here's hoping.

Rich Mnisi | Instagram

In more star-making news, Rich Mnisi has won - by popular vote! - The Essence Best in Black Fashion Award for Emerging Designer of the Year! He received it in person in New York today, and is collaborating with Essence to open New York Fashion Week! The world isn't ready for everything coming out of this city, this country, this continent. Essence also deserves much more recognition as a legacy brand that has championed black creativity and excellence all around the world.

That's all, enjoy fashion week! I'm back online after some internet issues this week (no more Afrihost for me) and very excited to enjoy the action on Instagram. I'm also still digging for details on Elle Nigeria. 👀

PS, tell your friends to subscribe, since, you know, an LVMH Prize winner reads this newsletter. LOL I can't believe it?!

Photo select of model Michaela Bercu for the cover of VOGUE November 1988, Anna Wintour’s first for Vogue US.
Styled by Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, and shot by Peter Lindbergh. | @Voguemagazine

"The first rule of beauty is truth" - Peter Lindbergh, 1944-2019

Modupe Oloruntoba is a fashion writer & content producer in Johannesburg, South Africa.